Travel during the pandemic was not on our list of things to do, but when school scheduled a week break and Greg's company required that he take his unused vacation days (Brazilian Law), we could not pass up the opportunity.
So, where to go? On our list of requirements:
1. Safety
2. A place that follows protocols.
3. A place with low number of cases.
4. A place that would give us a break from our 'connected' lives.
Research began, with the boys having as much input as Greg and I. Many conversations about traveling during the pandemic, many questions asked and answered, many options tossed out. So what did we choose????
The Amazon Rainforest!
Then, we made the decision to really disconnect. We chose a place that had cabins, no air conditioning and believe it or not, no internet or cell service!
Packing was a pain! We were heading to a place that none of us have any experience with, so we did a lot of research and packed according to what we read. Everything was dry-fit, fast drying, cool type material, including shirts (long and short), shorts, pants, swimming suits, hats, flip-flops and more. One entire suitcase as dedicated to the 'what ifs'. We packed: sunscreen packets; bug repellent wipes, bracelets, and lotion; medicine of every kind; first aid items (scissors, nail clippers, band-aides, ointments and more); face wipes; vitamins; Gatorade packets; rain ponchos; etc.
Loaded up with three small carry-ons, three backpacks and one camera bag, we left the house around 4:30 in the morning to head to the airport. When in the airport and on the plane, we all used the form-fitting N95 masks and had alcohol on us. The four hour flight allowed for some needed nap time!
Flying into the city of Manaus was one of the most unique experiences. The boys were near the window taking all the photos for us! For as far as the eye could see, it was just green and trees. Then, we started to see the rivers.
The first river (above) we flew over was the Rio Madeira (meaning wood) and we thought this was a big river! The second river (below) was the Amazon River. We were surprised at the size, but realize this was only a small portion of the river.
The third river (below) was the Rio Negro, Black River and it was massive! It looked like the ocean in some parts!
The airport in Manaus is a smaller airport, but still bigger than MCI! As we exited, they had a turtle display that only added to our excitement!
We knew we would be tired from the early flight and the travel, so we had reserved a room at a hotel for the night. This allowed us to relax and not be rushed straight from the airport to travel even more into the rainforest. As always, Greg's researching abilities did not disappoint. The view of the city and river from the room was spectacular!
We walked to the nearby shopping mall to find lunch and buy a few things we could not pack as we only carried on luggage. Plus, we knew we would need a lot of these items, so buying shampoo, conditioner, a big bottle of sun screen and huge water bottles was not a problem.
We watched the sunset over the river, a beautiful deep red color that could not be picked up by the camera, and enjoyed our luxury of air conditioning, showers with pressure and hot water, and comfy beds for as long as we could!
The next day, after breakfast, we were picked up by the transfer and we were off for our two hour ride into the rainforest. The journey started by traveling across the Ponte Rio Negro, a 3,595 meter (2.2 miles) long bridge that took us out of the city and into more rougher terrain.
These roads were not just minimum maintenance, they were create your own adventure roads!
After the two hour journey by car, we switched to boat, as the lodges are only accessible by water.
It is the dry season, as you can clearly see based on the photos. This boat docking area is not used during the rainy season as there is one much closer and easier to access, but in the dry season, that one has no water, so they must use this area. The propellers on the engines were teeny tiny and for the beginning of the trip, they kept it mostly out of the water making it feel like a cartoon boat. It is crazy to think, we were standing on the bottom of the river, where fish swam, hunted and hid, anacondas slithered, crocodiles belly-rolled, stingrays slept and dolphins played. It is difficult to imagine this whole area under water!
Here we go! The driver had to start with the oars, then, as we progressed into deeper and deeper water, he dropped the propellers into the water.
Our boat pulled up to a LONG dock and there was no Lodge in site. We looked at each other, realization sinking in that we still had some walking to do!
Off we went, loaded with our suitcases, backpacks and water bottles, following the guide with no idea where we were going!
Finally, we approached the main entrance! Welcome to the Tariri Amazon Lodge
We were greeted by wildlife!
Normally, in the wet season, the water comes up to the cabins, which is why they are raised. The cabins sway and move with the wind or when someone walks around.
The cabins have screens on the windows, fans and a couple lights. No air conditioning, no WiFi, and sometimes....no electricity!
The cabin had three rooms: Sleeping area, a screened in porch with hammocks and a bathroom.
Rosita, this crazy bird, made the strangest noises, chased you and followed us all the way down to the water each time.
This hut is for relaxing and is usually where you find the birds.
These guys will fly right at your head
Each day, there was a laid back schedule.
8:00 am - Breakfast
9:30 am - Activity
1:00 pm - Lunch
3:30 pm - Activity
7:00 pm - Dinner
After organizing everything, it was time for lunch.
After lunch, we explored the grounds and became acquainted with the locals.
When we arrived, there was another family of four already there and a family of three that came in with us. The family of four left the next day, and the family of three left the following day. Therefore, we were alone for most of the time!
Day One: Our first excursion, fishing for piranha!
Look at these faces, they were beyond excited!
So, how does one fish for piranha? First, you need a cane pole with fishing line, a metal lead and a hook. Then, you need raw chicken! Place the chicken on the hook, drop it in the water, smack the pole in the water repeatedly to create a 'struggling' fish sound and wait. When you feel the bite, yank the pole!
Greg caught one! Alden was so excited! If you look in the background of the photo, you will see the guide holding onto a very large piece of bamboo. As the river is low, they carry this with them when they go out. When they find a place they would like to fish, stick it deep into the mud, and tie the boat to it.
I caught one too! Ours were not big enough to keep, but it was still fun! The boys had a lot of bites, but were not quick enough to snag them. We learned that if you do not get a bite or catch a fish soon enough, the water is so warm that it will cook the chicken! The piranha do not bite the cooked version as much as the raw!
Returning home, the boys wanted to spend more time with the animals. Greg held out his hand for a high-five and he got more than he bargained for.
Daily Summary from the boys:
As Alden, Zane and I prepared to wind down and get ready for bed, Alden began to freak out. He was pointing to the wall. There, on the artwork, near the fish's eye, was a huge, black spider. I held Alden to calm him while Zane went to get Greg. The boys snuggled up with me, while Greg braved taking on the spider. Once the spider had been removed, Alden would not sleep in his own bed. Therefore, Greg slept in the bed nearest to where the spider had been...for the entire time.
Day Two: Rainforest Hike and a Visit to a Local Community.
The temperature the day before had been decent. We were not too hot and slept OK with the fan. But this day, when we woke, we knew it was going to be a hot one! We dressed in pants, shirts, tennis shoes, our new hats, and covered ourselves in sunscreen and bug repellent.
While a path did exist, it easily becomes covered or overgrown. Germano, the owner and guide, carried a machete with him and was constantly cutting and removing obstacles!
We were surprised at the size of the thorns! As you can see, the dry season results in a lot of fallen foliage making our track very noisy. Therefore, we did not see any animals, just many butterflies and insects. However, the foliage created this thick, mossy, spongy layer making the hike pleasant on the feet. Termite nests, crazy twisted trees, tall trees hundreds of years old, trees used for communication, trees for drinking water, plants that provide protection, and much more were seen.
Zane swinging and attempting to climb a vine.
Germano explaining how the bark peels off of this tree. The bark is then used to create many different items from tools to decorations. He also explained how they use certain trees to communicate with those across the river.
Learning how to get water from these certain plants, including where to cut to get the most water and protect the rest of the plant. The forest was thick, we cannot imagine what it looks like in the lush, rainy season! It was easy to get turned around, to get lost in this area. Without a guide, it would be impossible to know where you are or where you are going!
There were many twists, turns, holes, and thorns. Alden and I ended up with multiple thorns (espinas) in our shoes. We all tripped over or stumbled over items.
This walk had us sweating tremendously, as you can see if you look at my shirt! This is only 20 minutes into our 2+ hour walk! Everything was soaked. The minute we returned, we showered, changed, ate lunch and rested!
Our afternoon had us heading off to a local community. Everywhere we traveled, we traveled by boat. The boys adored this so much.
As we approached the community, we were greeted by yet another dock. Each one we saw was different and each one looked unsteady, but yet, they were all sturdy. To help you visualize, look at the white building in this picture. The water normally reaches the top of the hill, right in front of this building.
To get to the community, we had to walk up the hill. As some areas are still wet or muddy, we had to practice our balancing on a raised platform path.
The community is a large one, as we were informed, having about 40-50 different families. The area is surrounded by farm land in which they grow as much as they can to provide food.
This is the school house, one large room for everyone to learn. Children attend school until around 6th grade and then begin to work to help the families.
Typical family homes.
The water tower for the town.
The local bar!
Orapendola bird nests!
Location for ceremonies of all kinds.
Cashew fruit and nuts growing on the most beautiful trees.
The boys caught being boys!
Watching the sunset over the river.
Masks off for a beautiful picture!
Getting back on the boat, practicing our balancing skills again!
Daily Summary from the boys:
Day 3: A Farm and Fishing
A 40 minute boat ride took us to a local farm. We met a couple, in their 70s that run a mandioca farm. As we were floating along, heading to our destination, we heard this ruckus in front of us. Much to our surprise, a fish had jumped into the boat. After rescuing the fish, he was safely returned to the river.
This dock was definitely the one that made us hesitate the most. It was very unsteady and difficult to maneuver. We were encouraged to run for it.
After climbing our way to the top of the hill to their farm house, we were introduced to all the trees on their property.
The woman was carrying a machete and a large ball that looked like a coconut. She handed both to the man who broke open the large ball to reveal a bunch of brown pods. These pods were then opened up to expose the Brazil Nut inside! The freshly picked nut has a much sweeter taste that what we are used to! Zane loved them.
The couple walked us out to where the plants were growing. Here you can see young, fresh sproutlings compared to the full grown plants. Mandioca is a root vegetable similar to a potato and is utilized for many dishes throughout Brazil (and many other countries), in many different ways! This large plant is the yellow mandioca, known as the ANGRY mandioca. Why? Because it is full of CYANIDE!
To process this version, they first peel the root. Then, it is placed into a machine that grates/shreds the root into very fine pieces. They then put this ground up mixture into a special basket (looks like a chinese finger trap) and squeeze all the liquid out. This liquid sits in a large container to separate. The liquid on top is discarded as it is poisonous and the starch left is turned into tapioca! The ground up mandioca is cooked over a huge fire and turned into farofa. Madioca can also be cooked in any of the ways you would cook and prepare a potato.
The process takes them a very long time with the machinery they have, but people come from all around to buy from them and they ship most to Manaus to sell.
After making our way down the hill and safely back to the boat, we enjoyed our lunch and our rest and then went to try some more fishing! More piranha were caught, including one by Greg that was big enough to eat!
They guides took us to a spot near the lodge to fish for Trahira (wolf-fish). Again, the boys were fishing with only a bamboo pole, hook and raw chicken. It did not take long for them to start pulling fish out of the water. Dad would have been so proud to watch them experience this! Catching them was easy. Getting them off the hook without having your finger bitten off was difficult!
Daily Summary from the boys:
Day 4: Arapraimas, Pink Dolphins, a Walk Through Mud and a Nighttime Boat Ride
After another good night's sleep, we woke to a enjoy a traditional Brazilian breakfast of meat, cheese, bread and fruit. Then, we were off to explore. We took a quick boat ride to a floating business. Here, they feed the Pink Dolphins to keep them nearby, but they can still be free. They also have an area to fish for the Arapraima fish (Pirarucu).
We have watched shows like Chasing Monsters and River Monsters and have seen this fish. Never did we think we would see them up close or experience their power. This fish is of the largest fresh water fish and is an air breather. The attack of the fish is so loud. They do not let you catch them, as they are a protected species, but will let you experience their strength. They would tie pieces of fish to a rope and the Arapraima would attack it. The smiles on the boys faces say it all!
After they fished for a bit, we got in the water with the pink dolphins (botos). They were bigger and stronger than we imagined! There were about 10-12 of them swimming around us, including a baby (SOOOO cute!). Alden could not touch the bottom of the platform, so he became a little unsure when he got in. However, hanging on to me helped. Greg stayed out and had to be coaxed in. He said he was in charge of pictures, I know he was hesitant as this is not his forte. He got in, but it was not his favorite!
During lunch, we experienced our first rainstorm!
In the afternoon, they took us as far down this branch of the river as was possible. They pulled up to land and we got out to explore. The water in the river was warm, remember I mentioned above. The water coming from the rainforest was cold! The brothers (Germano and Nixon) explained the area, taught us about the animals we were hearing. the difference in the mud and the sand, and just let the boys run, play and explore.
In this picture, Germano pointed out all of the shallow holes in the dirt. These are created by stingray as they nestle into the bottom of the river. Some of those holes were huge!
Our feet were filthy, but our hearts were happy! We walked to a bar on a hill, but unfortunately it was closed. A local woman had walked all the way down from her house for a drink and was sad to find it closed. She visited with our guides for a while and then walked to the river bank and started yelling across the river to the town for someone to find the owner! By this point the sun was setting quickly, so we walked back to our boat and headed back home, but this time, in the dark!
Flashlights were used to shine along the bank to help find the jacare (alligators) and we saw more that even they expected, due to the dry season. This one allowed us to get really close before venturing into the murky water. They called it a jacare tigre (tiger alligator) due the stripes. The alligator is albino with gray stripes. Beautiful!
Can you see the tiny light between A and Z's heads? This is the alligators eyes!
When we arrived back at the lodge, they were without electricity. When they dock the boat, they take time each night to lock it up, remove the engine and all materials as there are pirates in the area. They asked us if we had a flashlight. Greg replied that we had our phone. They asked if we could find our way in the dark. Greg said no problem. So, off we went in the middle of the rainforest with nothing but a phone light to guide us. Greg was leading us, boys in the middle with me at the end. As we approach the lodge, I hear Greg start freaking out. He is yelling and swinging my camera bag. He hollers for us to go around him. The boys begin crying and freaking out, holding on to me, while Greg continues to yell for me to go around, to run. What was I doing??? Laughing and trying to calm everyone down! So, what was it that had Greg so freaked out???
A PIG! Now, this is a wild pig (porco do mato), but these hang around the lodge, eat with the monkeys and are fine with humans. The pig was doing nothing but nosing at Greg and looking for food!
We ate dinner in the dark with candles and emergency lamps, listening to all the insects, frogs and other noises of the rain forest. As we finished dessert, the electricity returned and we were able to sleep comfortably with the fan.
Daily Summary from the boys:
Day 5: Indigenous Tribe and a Canoe Ride
Why did it take over an hour? It was 30 minutes to get to the Rio Negro and then 30 minutes to get across that part of the river! It was HUGE! Easily 10km across and we were told it triples (30km /19 mi) in size during the rainy season.
Flying through a flock of birds
This picture shows us approaching the Rio Negro. It was crazy how the water changed.
It went from choppy to still and reflective.
The reflection off the water looked as clear as the real thing!
The other side is way over there. So much river to cross!
As we approached the edge of the river, we approached another dock, we quickly realized how much the river changes as they did not adjust their dock. It was feet above our heads!
The terrain was a lot more rocky that what we had seen so far. As we walked toward the village, we were not sure if we could take photos, so we did not take many! This area, normally under water, is used for farming during the dry season. Something that can happen on parts of the river, but not all. In some areas the dirt is too acidic from the water.
We were taken to the ceremonial hut, where they have weddings, celebrations, and where they choose their leader.
They lit this bark from a tree that repels insects and began to tell us the stories of their village. Most of the people were out in the fields farming. Those that were there, dressed in their ceremonial clothing and preformed some dances for us. The men wore loin cloths and leaves. They had noise makers made from seeds on their legs. The wore head dresses, representing their status. The woman wore grass skirts and necklaces. They had tattoos and paintings on their bodies. The presentation started with the the leader explaining that the government requires them to wear masks around visitors as it would be the visitors that would bring the virus into their village. The masks were provided to the tribe from the government.
Most of the stories they shared were about the traditions that they follow. The one that really got our attention is when they want to be a leader. They bring all the men into the hut and they whip them with this specific whip made from fibers of different trees. If you do not cry or do not run away, you stay in the running for the leader. They continue doing this until one person is left.
The last dance they performed was one for prosperity. They pulled each of us into the dance. My boys loved this so much!!
It was a long ride back home!
In the afternoon, Greg and the boys took off to fish from a canoe. I watched from the dock and enjoyed the quiet while taking some fun pictures.
Greg caught a dogfish while Alden caught a large piranha!
The boys had another successful fishing experience!
While I sat on the dock, I was amazed at the number of fish that would jump!
Daily Summary from the boys:
Here are some additional videos and more artistic photos that were taken. As always, thanks for reading!
